“I like speed, I just look for the biggest waves” – Corriere.it

He learned to surf at the age of fifty. No intention to withdraw. Not even now that he’s 92. it is The amazing story of Nancy Mahern, a lady from New Zealand—specifically from Scarborough Beach, not far from Christchurch—takes her table every holy morning and goes to bear the waves. “As long as I can stand at the table, I will continue.” The story of “Wild Days”, a book that should not be missed William Finnegan Pulitzer Prize 2016.

The Guardian told his story. “What do the guys who pass me on the beach say? They respect me,” explains Mrs. Nancy, who tells her with such passion: “I love it when you buy speed. It moves really fast, it’s cute… I let the little waves go, they last for a very short time. I’m waiting for the adults. I like being close to the water, to feel like it’s taking me fast.” Speed, adrenaline, a constant search for the limit: that’s his secret, at 92 at 20.

It was really a life full of adventures, his life. Born in Wellington in 1929and says he lived a full life, “without a moment of boredom”. After graduation, she roamed the world, supporting herself with English lessons. From Great Britain to France to Syria, Lebanon, Afghanistan, Pakistan and India. Back to New Zealand 1956. The elixir of life? “No sugar, since I was a little girl.” And of course surfing.