New Zealand by Train: A Call to Slow Travel

As the sun is just rising and the Northern Explorer quietly leaves Wellington, the capital of New Zealand, a long journey begins through the diverse landscapes of the heart of the North Island. We will have to travel about 650 kilometers before arriving in Auckland in the evening. There is no Wi-Fi on board, but we are comfortably seated in our spacious seat with panoramic windows, enjoying every moment of this journey. Immediate departure!

A little history…

After 30 years of technical work that required the construction of many structures, the first passenger train began its famous journey in 1908. For decades to come, the North Island's main railways would allow New Zealanders to visit family and friends and explore new lands.

The train, now called the Northern Explorer, has become more of a tourist attraction over time, connecting Wellington to Auckland (or vice versa) in around 11 hours, inviting us on a uniquely contemplative journey. Through a series of bridges spanning valleys and rivers, not to mention the central volcanic plateau and the green, multi-faceted landscape dotted with sheep and cows, this panoramic journey is one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences.

QMI Photography Agency, Erica Tremblay

Once we get to our seat, we make sure to put on the provided headphones so we don't miss any of the audio commentary about the construction of the railway network, the different areas crossed and the fascinating Maori legends.

eyes fixed on the horizon

Image courtesy of Northern Explorer

A few minutes after leaving the New Zealand capital, we pass Porirua Harbour with its calm waters and moored sailboats, while a light rain falls on the window. But the weather has nothing to shake us! On the contrary, we are already announcing the opening of the open-air observation car, which will be our preferred location for a large part of the trip. For professional and amateur photographers (we tend to fall into the latter category), this open space reveals a world of possibilities.

As we drive along the rocky coast of Pukerua Bay, we are in complete awe of the scenery. At this very moment, the railway clings to the cliffs overlooking the Tasman Sea and we can see the tiny island of Kapiti in the distance. We take the opportunity to admire the blue sea before immersing ourselves in the mountainous landscape of the outback. It’s a great time to visit the car café, where the staff serve local drinks and snacks in a friendly atmosphere.

QMI Photography Agency, Erica Tremblay

A series of artistic achievements

After a short stop in Palmerston North, the highlight of the journey awaits. The train slowly eats away at miles of railway line that follow the Rangitikai River, where the water has eroded the sandstone to reveal sheer white cliffs. To navigate this unique area, the Northern Explorer will have to cross no fewer than five stunning bridges, including the 72m-high, 229m-long Makuhane Bridge, built between 1896 and 1902.

Image courtesy of Northern Explorer

We make a quick stop at Ohakune, and shortly after, we have the most beautiful view of Mount Ruapehu, an active volcano known for its sparkling blue lake, against a clear sky. The train then passes another series of bridges, including the tallest of all, the Makakuti Bridge (79 metres high and 262 metres long), a bright red structure that spans a deep gorge.

In the heart of the volcanic region

It’s past noon when the Northern Explorer cruises through the wild landscape of Tongariro National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage jewel. When the weather is good, passengers flock to the open-top vehicle to admire the distinctive cone of the Ngauruhoe volcano.

Image courtesy of Northern Explorer

If you want to stretch your legs, plan a stop at Tongariro Station to explore the area and cover the 19.5 kilometres of the famous Tongariro Crossing, which is among the most beautiful hikes in New Zealand (and even the world). Follow Lord of the Rings I couldn’t stay still while admiring the places that once served as the setting for Mordor. Another option: get off at Hamilton Station, the country’s fourth largest city, to visit the filming location of the famous Hobbiton movies.

For those who haven't seen enough engineering yet, keep an eye out as the train prepares to travel on the Raurimo Spiral. Expertly developed between 1898 and 1908, this section of the railway is designed in a circle with two tunnels, allowing the train to climb and descend the central plateau very gently.

Fields and pastures as far as the eye can see.

QMI Photography Agency, Erica Tremblay

The journey continues through the plains of the Waikato region, the heart of dairy production and agriculture in general. Woodland and bush landscapes dominate the heart of this rural area. It has already been dark for some time when we finally see the famous Sky Tower of Auckland rising on the horizon. This long train journey allowed us to recharge our batteries in the most beautiful way.

Image courtesy of Northern Explorer

Practical information

• Three departures per week each way, starting at NZ$199.
• Since May, the railway company has been offering a new car with the Scenic Plus experience, including a menu of regional specialties with table service.
• For more information, see greatjourneysnz.com.