New life for the emblematic Saint-Eutrope restaurant in Clermont-Ferrand

The last brush strokes. On her staircase, artist Louise Sheeran enhanced her mural. It is crowned over the entire width of the restaurant, and represents Adam and Eve, reclining and joyful, tasting wine. “We gave ourselves two weeks to open a business,” says Manon Decombats as he looks at the work, among the still poorly arranged tables and chairs.

The thirty-year-old and her companion Michael Hazlewood took over the very popular Hotel Saint-Eutrope from Harry Lester, on the street (and church) of the same name, a stone’s throw from Place Gaillard.

Classic French, Italian and Asian bistro…

These two are not strangers to the place. They have worked – she in the dining room for about 2 years, he in the kitchen for 5 years – in this gastronomic institution in Clermont-Ferrand, which was awarded “Best Bistro” at Fooding 2015, and Bib Gourmand at Michelin and awarded this year. In the “Today’s Traditions” category at Gault & Millau.

“We want to keep it simple,” says Manon straight away. “It will be a continuation of the above, there will still be natural wines but with a little bit of the spicier ‘Maike’ cuisine.”

With 25 years of culinary experience, the New Zealander, who has some experience in Australia, London and even at the Chassenolles in Haute-Loire, intends to add his little touch.

“I love it so much, I love everything,” the chef says in his accent and slightly broken French. One thing is certain, he will create “classic French bistro, Italian, Asian bistro… using the best products.” This would be a ‘Mike Touch’: baos (an Asian dish consisting of steamed stuffed brioche buns), bouillabaisse, veal blanket or even ramen, could make up the dishes of the week.

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On the formula…there is no formula. One dish daily for lunch, Tuesday to Friday. On the first day, Tuesday, September 19, they chose veal collar and tomorrow it will be roast chicken. “We won’t write down the vegetarian dish, there will always be one, just ask,” explains Clermontoise, who notably worked in a Michelin-starred restaurant in Lille, as a sommelier.

In the evening, a moment of sharing

In the evening, they see it above all as a moment of sharing. Don’t mention the word “tapas” (they hate it, it’s become a generic word), but that’s the idea. “I deliberately bought dishes from several floors,” Manon drifts off. We will explain the quantities to people. The main thing is to take the time to eat.”

A pleasure to pair with wine. Nature clearly. “We chose together, there will be a lot of aromatic wines, with a particularly light floral and fruity side. They will, for example, break up the pepper that we can find in certain dishes in the evening.” It’s enough to make you want to end up like Adam and Eve, up against the wall.

Erwan Rousseau